Magura HydroStops ‘Bleed Jig’

Magura HydroStops are very cool brakes… wait, they are not cool as in ‘hip CNC bike bling’ because they are bulky and most likely heavy (these are the reasons why most folk ‘dis’-like them). In my world which is a practical world where stuff on a bike needs to perform a task and perform it so well it doesn’t need tweaking while you are out on the trail, Magura HydroStops ARE cool
They are VERY powerful, work in the most hideous conditions if you use the right pads and once they are setup correct will carry on for decades.

The real bummer about Magura HydroStops is if you actually break the ‘system’ then you have a whole bunch of work to do. Most will know that they are a ‘closed/sealed’ hydraulic braking system filled with mineral oil and they have a master cylinder at the lever end and a slave cylinder at the pad end, with a connecting ‘bridge’ linking one side of the wheel to the other. Everything links up with tough plastic hose and at every junction there are compression joints using brass olives or bolt up connectors with barbed joints. If you buy a set of Magura HydroStops, hang them on your bike out the packet and just switch pads then your life will indeed be painless and full of smile inducing, aggressive stops, but if you meddle with lots of different bikes, pull HydroStop systems apart to replace parts or extend hoses then you are into the whole dull bleed routine.

Basically you need to pump fresh Magura Blood into the system, make sure no air gets it and fix everything back together but like most things in life the previous sentence was a LARGE understatement

So you check out the documentation that Magura supply….try doing it while the brakes are attached to your bike and sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you don’t. This is also one of those jobs where four hands would make it really easy and….listen carefully Magura……bleed valves that don’t need removing!!

Everyone has their own way to do this task but I’ve settled on using a ‘jig’ to do mine as it solves the gravity problems and it solves the ‘I wish I was an octopus’ problems too.

Take the brakes off the bike, fix them up on a workstand (or fence post) like in the pix below, fill the syringe to maximum, pump fluid through until your air bubbles have stopped and when you remove the overflow at the top get your finger over the hole and get that grub screw in there real fast. Now…..don’t do it up real tight but get it very close, keeping the Allen key in there, then reach down to the syringe and pump more blood through as you are tigthening, this maximises the fluid and prevents any air getting back inside.
Now the top is sealed tight getting the bottom end off is easier and if the fluid level falls slightly just fill up the bleed screw hole with fluid before you screw it back in. Your brakes should now be air free and powerful

Getting jiggy with it

Top end

Bottom end

Feel free to comment :-)

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